"Zew0philes of Mercy" potential massbait

By joining our community you will have the ability to post topics and access other forums reserved for members. Registration is quick, simple and absolutely free. Join our community today by clicking here.

Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 6:21 pm

@bohigal That was absolutely brilliant!

As his oga I asked our Veterinary Sturgeon for an update on his jobs

Quote:

Dear {oga}

I will send it but the work are not talking well,if you are online let me know by calling me so we can chat as you said.
Regards Joseph.

Feel free to hand out his his number to angly lads looking for revenge / call him asking for pizza at 3am

I did ask him what the problem was and he relplied

Quote:

They ask too much documents and photos so it takes me time to get then that is why i dont have time to send you updates.

So I took the opportunity to coach my young padawan in the ways of the magas...

Quote:

Hello Joseph

Joseph you have to realise that the magas are suspicious of anything that comes out of Africa. They are wise now to the old 419 scams and these days any maga will ask for proof and documents and pictures. The truth is that if you get someone who doesn't ask questions and says they will run down to the Western Union after 2 or 3 mails then that person is a joker and they will never pay you. If you get someone like than then just curse them out and leave them.

I have lived here a long time and the secret with the magas in these days is just have to keep cool, always be polite, do whatever they want. If they say they need a form filled in then just do it as best you can, if they want a document or a photo of the animal then just get it for them, documents and forms make the magas feel safe and when they feel safe they will pay out.

Just keep up the work Joseph, I'm sure you're doing well and the money will come.

Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 6:48 pm

^^Nice piece of de-education, sunshine. You might want to mask his phone number, in case he starts wondering why he gets so many calls of a sudden.

I want this lad's head on a platter. In both baits with my visually impaired character so far, he has added $10,000 to his initial amounts. She hasn't noticed the extra "0". Evil or Very Mad

Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 7:52 pm

Here is his sworn statement. It is not acceptable since it doesn't say he is a "Veterinary Sturgeon." As you know, anyone could claim to be a veterinary, but it takes a sturgeon to export animals.

Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 10:31 pm

Apparently Satan googled this thread and decided to give our man a call.

Click to hear Satan come a-calling.

This doesn't hold a bell, book or candle to 419Weasel's classic uses of this soundboard.

Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 11:53 pm

bohigal, the chat was awesome! It was very hard to stifle my laughter at work once the dog came into the picture Laughing

Good news! The baby eagle he is selling me also likes spaghetti:

Quote:

Dear Mr Stephen,

Thanks for you reply,yes we have all the Leger certificate to ship the Eagle to you,yes the food they eat is the same know as spaghely,please once you send the money just send us the infos so that we can collect the money and the payment receipt of you will be send to you and we will make the shipment to you.

Regards Dr Kwati

Quote:

Dear Dr. Kwati,

Okay, that's great.

Can you send me a scan of the veterinary certificate? I will need that in order to show proof that this money is for an eagle who likes spaghetti.

You know, local regulations, animal zoning, stuff like that I need to show the certificate too.

Sincerely,
Stephen

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 2:33 am

Hilarious!

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 8:03 am

He's making his own certificates up now (or having them made for him at his expense) - I didn't give him this:

419Eater is my life Joined: 29 Jan 2009 Posts: 265

Nice certificate. Although I do wonder which diseases are included in this Smile

.

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 8:53 am

dutchkroket wrote:

Nice certificate. Although I do wonder which diseases are included in this Smile

.

I'm hoping all of them. After all the information are true and correct and have been certify good and seal from the ministry of health.

Although I'm not sure that "Larry Wilson" is a very Ghanain name, nor why he would choose to sign himself as "Karl" Rolling Eyes

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:16 am

I'm currently waiting for pictures of purple collar-velociraptors.
Unfortunately, I used the abbreviation raptors.
Which are birds.
He's completely confused regarding the pictures he sends me (both of eagles, velociraptors from Jurassic Park, etc.) Laughing

I'll wait again an e-mail or two before making it clearer for him.

And then we will discuss the payment for the couple I want, with hope they will reproduce.
He proposed 1800$ for each.
Too bad he didn't ask more, I was ready tu put ten times more on the table! Twisted Evil

419Eater is my life Joined: 29 Jan 2009 Posts: 265

I would ask for a list of diseases included. You can never be too sure. Before you know it, you import some family of monkeys who escape and wipe out most of world population due some disease on which they were not tested.

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 11:33 am

i am using this guy as my first proper bait.... been in contact with him for a few days now and i have some good plans for this clown

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 1:17 pm

Lovely trophy, Sunshine!

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 3:21 pm

He's back now - after 5 days of no messages. Hmmm.

his message was very short. he must be getting frustrated. I ordered a unicorn. Need to know the particulars of his dealings though.

UPDATE 07-30-2009

Just got an email with multiple unicorn pics. He's refocussing on the money now.

Quote:

Attn: Horati,
Thanks for your mail, Your contents of your mail, is well understood and we are going to delivery to you sucessfully.
This are the model by which you can send the money to us.You can Choose your Choice:-
1,Bank :-Western Union Money Transfer
2,Money Gram Bank
3. Bank to Bank (Money transfer through the Bank Account).
Your details;-
1.Your Fully Names
2.Your Delivering Address
3.Phone Number.
This are the document required from you , Scan copy of the Handwriting and Picture of the Uncorns is attached.
Your positive reply
With Greetings
Rev. Dr. Kw4ti Yebo4h .D.
Veter1nary Sturge0n
Z00philes of M3rcy An1mal R3fuge

Now I need your advice, should I go for the piggybank, or would he get suspicious with 2 bank accounts being shut down in short order? Is it better to get the accounts shut down or waste his time?

He re-wrote his sworn statement for me but called himself a surgeon. I am disappointed. I was hoping for the fish.

Sunshine - I contacted him as having his info forwarded through a friend, so he is likely going for a 100% payout on this one without you knowing. I'm not sure if there is an angle to play there, or how to work into it. I may ask him to put me in touch with the animal handlers directly so that I can find out about the un1corn's quirks. I especially want to know if it will play nicely with the Armadill0 and W0mbat.

It is interesting that I sent him links to a site on the 0tapi when I put in my unicorn request, but he sent me back pics of the standard white horse with horn on head.

I also asked him for info on a Yet1. He never acknowledged that, so I may play him in that direction. Mythological creatures are fun.

Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 4:45 pm

Do you guys think that a zoophile who got really excited about a reported sighting of an 4djule 4djule Wikipedia could get this guy to go to Mauritiana to look for one?

Maybe a scientific expedition.

Is there a site that allows you to make up bogus news stories, or would it better just presented as a cut&paste in an email? Would it be better to nudge him in this direction gently, or drop everything and go for it because my character is so excited to finally see one in the wild.

Ideas?

Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 5:16 pm

Newspaper snippet generator at http://www.fodey.com/generators/newspaper/snippet.asp

I don't think there is much leverage on him at the minute in accusing him of cutting me (as his oga) out of my share as he could quite legitimately argue that he hasn't made any money yet Smile

I would always go for a piggy - it causes the lad more pain (sometimes literally as the account often belongs to a senior lad who takes great exception to his account being closed thanks to the action of the lad) and there are lots of great delaying modalities when you have a bank account such as switching 2 numbers in the account number, sending the money to the Accrington branch instead of the Accra branch (pesky drop down boxes!), etc, etc.

Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 7:39 pm

Speaking of piggies he's given me another bank account for Alan (Barclay's, name of P@ul S0k0h). He is setting himself up nicely for the self-chop. Excellent!

Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 9:40 pm

He's being awful slow in getting me that veterinary certificate. I sent him a gentle slap Smile

Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 7:23 am

I just hit him up for the CITES certificate and he's refusing to fill it in without payment so he got slapped for that and my victim character is now thinking this is dodgy and is getting suspicious.

So just to add fuel to the fire I dropped him a line as his oga:

Quote:

Hello Joseph

Can I have your end of the week status report please. You should probably have got two or three of the magas to pay you by now so long as you have been following my earlier advice about doing what they want and getting them happy.

If you can prove yourself on this job I have some face to face work for you in Ghana I would like you to accomplish, big pay off too, will be at least $20,000 for you, maybe more.

Looking forward to hearing from you.

Chairman Peter

Expect extra hard pleading for money today folks Laughing

Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 1:44 pm

Yuppers Sunshine - He sent me pics and veterinary certificates for Yet1s and un1corns.

I'm glad the Yet1 was tested for tourettes. I would be most upset if it wasn't. I am out shopping for the wedding I'm headed to this weekend and asked him to quickly send me the bank info to do a money transfer since I'm already at the mall.

Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 3:50 pm

He's not happy Smile

Quote:

Thank you for your mail,please i have dont done this type of job before,i have spend so much money doing documents and they keep asking documents and no of then want to pay by western union they all ask for bank account and i have given 3 of them account but they never get back to me,please brother if there is face to face work let me know so i can do it im broke now i dont have any thing with me as i have spend much money on this jobs.

Aw, poor lad Laughing

Time to turn the pressure up a notch.

Quote:

Hello Joseph

You have to realise that these days Magas are more demanding and suspicious. The days when we could simply send out a few mails saying we had General Abacha's trunkboxes and the magas would all run down to Western Union with dollars in their greedy little hands are over and they are not coming back.

To be successful at 419 takes persistence and skill now. You can see that this format is good and you have the magas replying to you but they are smarter than they were in the old days and many know about Western Union being for fraud and so will ask for bank accounts and documents. You need to be able to smile in your heart and accommodate what they ask for, and yes it will take time and some little money but you must think of it as an investment and the pay off will be large.

Here is what I will do. You do whatever the magas ask to get them to pay. If you have three paying magas by this time next week I will get you the face-to-face work.I cannot say fairer than that.

Have a nice weekend

Chairman Peter

Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 12:28 am

Ooops, I just realized that I'm baiting this guy too. I only have a few e-mails exchanged right now, but I plan on playing this one straight anyways. I just asked him for some sort of ID to prove who he is, expecting a fake passport or something, but apparently he doesn't even have that. Surprised

He voluntarily told me:

Quote:

During our payments we do not pay through western Union money Transfer, Neither we operate through Bank to Bank transfer, So therefore i will be glad that you can deal with us fully.

So I'm going to ask for his bank details so I can either send him the money or get the bank account shut down...I haven't decided which yet. Razz

Edit to add:

I've offered to provide him with a bunch more donors, since being an environmental nut, I have lots of friends who would be interested in helping also:

Quote:

You said that I would have to send the money to your bank, so please send me these details. Once you send me the list of animals with the cost for each one, I will select the ones I want to sponsor and send you the money. I even have a few friends that I discussed this with and they may also be interested in helping.

Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 6:33 pm

Quote:

1.Elephant, Cost of takecares is $ 4,500usd ,Yearly
2,Tiger , Cost of takecares is $ 5,890usd ,Yearly
3, Unicorns, Cost of takecares is $6,889usd , Yearly

I'm taking the unicorn. Do any of my friends want to take the elephant or tiger?

He was also nice enough to send me a bank account, which I'll be sending to Alan.

Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 9:13 pm

DUmb lad, "Mr Copy and Paste" wrote:

Attn:Mr Musa,
Thanks for your kind mail which i receives from you, You contents of your mail is well understood.
Regarding to the Breeding Pair Firstly:- Breeding Pair can be Define as:-Breeding pair is a pair of animals which cooperate over time to produce offspring. In contrast to any two copulating animals, the term breeding pair indicates some form of a bond between the individuals. For example, many birds mate for a breeding season or sometimes for life. They may share some or all of the tasks involved: building a nest, incubating the eggs and feeding and protecting the young.
True breeding pairs are usually found only in vertebrates, but there are notable exceptions, True breeding pairs are rare in amphibians or reptiles, but fairly common with fish (e.g. discus) and especially birds. Interestingly breeding pair type, of arrangements are rare in mammals. The breeding pairs, the babies, and your clients deserve an informed, committed, ethical, responsible, and knowledgeable breeder.
Breeding Greys is not just a matter of buying two birds, putting them together and letting nature take its course. Healthy and productive breeding pairs are required. Parents need the proper environment and diet to breed successfully. Chicks must be properly hand fed, weaned and socialized in order to develop into good companion birds. More effort is required to assure that the babies go only to good homes, in educating the new owners and in keeping in touch to make sure that all is going well. All of this takes time, knowledge and extraordinary commitment and should not be entered into lightly.

Start-up expenses will be considerable. Social engagements will be planned around your feeding schedule; vacations will be very rare; holidays, birthdays, and anniversaries are just another day in the life of a breeder. Feeding and watering the breeding pairs, cleaning cages, tidying up the aviary, routine maintenance, and handfeeding the babies comes before convenience or pleasure.

More is known today than ever before to help us meet the challenge of raising healthy, well-socialized companion birds. Given their intelligence and sensitivity, perhaps breeding and raising African Greys is the most challenging of all. Those who are drawn to this endeavor by their compassion and deep desire to nurture and contribute to the well being of these most beloved of earth's creatures will be rewarded beyond measure.

This is the first of a series of articles I have written on breeding Greys. It covers setting up, mating and breeding through the hatching of baby chicks. Additional articles on hatching, brooders, handfeeding, weaning and socializing babies will follow.

Selecting Birds

One of the most important first steps to successful breeding is a healthy pair of adult birds. Learn and understand the physical signs of healthy birds. Birds that have malformed feathers or pluck their feathers may be seriously ill. Some disease processes can cause plucking. Although plucking itself is unlikely to be inherited, the inability to handle stress as evidenced by plucking may well have a genetic component. Calm birds in good feather are obviously more desirable than terrified feather pluckers.

Other signs of ill health are a fluffed bird, a bird sitting low on the perch, respiratory sounds, tail bobbing, swelling or discharge from the eyes or nares, a pasted vent, feces containing undigested food, and abnormal color of urine, urates or feces. Although some foods can cause discoloration of the urine or the feces, the cause of any and all abnormalities should be investigated. Ideally, one should buy birds from a trusted source that agrees to make the sale conditional on a clean bill of health. Plan to pick up the birds on the way to an appointment with your avian vet. Consider taking a separate carrier for each bird.

Get as much history on the birds as possible. Previous diet, approximate age, and health history will be most useful for management purposes. If the pair is proven, the breeding history regarding the number of times per year the pair produces and the number of eggs per clutch can assist you in determining if the pair is comfortable with the way you have them set up. Find out what style of nestbox and cage size they were accustomed to before purchase.

Baseline Medical Data

A number of medical tests and procedures should be performed to ensure the birds are suitable for breeding. First, is a thorough physical examination. Surgical sexing including an examination of the internal organs can be done as necessary. Second, are bacteriologic tests such as a Gram's stain and a Culture and Sensitivity, which may be recommended based on the Gram's stain results. Some avian vets routinely do a Culture and Sensitivity instead of the Gram's Stain. Third, is a fecal flotation for the presence of worms. Worming can produce surprising results and should be considered. Last, are blood tests that should include a Complete Blood Count, a Complete Blood Chemistry Panel, and a PBFD screen. In the event of anomalous test results or professional observations of concern, a DNA blood probe for latent or active psittacosis infection, or testing for heavy metal poisoning, or an electrophoresis screen for aspergillosis can be run. If the birds have not been vaccinated against polyomavirus, the first of the two shots can be administered at this time. If the seller will provide you with reports of past examinations, go over the reports with your avian vet or contact the seller's avian vet to discuss the records.

Essential Quarantine and Diet Strategies

The absolute minimum quarantine period is 30 to 60 days. Unfortunately, in most homes the airflow is shared and strict quarantine is impossible. Many breeders don't have an off-site or outdoors quarantine location. If the birds are a pair, quarantine them together in a large cage in an out-of-the-way area unless you can quarantine them out-of-doors. If one bird of the pair must be medicated as a result of the health examination findings, cage the birds separately until the sick bird is medicated as directed and rechecked to make sure the health problem has been corrected. If they are singles, introduce them after quarantine as you would any other potential pair.

Feed quarantine birds last, change their cages last, and keep a smock and shoes near the door for use only in the quarantine room. If the birds were on a seed diet previous to purchase, begin the change from seeds to pellets and offer a varied diet of soft foods while they are being quarantined. Pellets and soft foods are a much more nutritious diet than seeds for the pair to feed the babies. Only two of my pairs failed to begin eating the pellets during quarantine; it took me three years to get them off seed and onto pellets and soft foods. If a new pair is on a seed diet, offer soft foods and the birds' normal ration of seeds in the morning. Several kinds of pellets should be available at all times. Remove the soft foods and the seed dish in the afternoon. The birds will have pellets and water until the next morning. Eventually, from boredom or hunger, they will begin to eat the pellets. It is very important to continue giving them seeds until they accept a varied nutritious diet even if it takes several weeks, months, or years. They are in a stressful situation initially and seeds are familiar food. Familiarity of any sort reduces stress.

Cage and Nestbox Etiquette

The smallest cage I use is a 4x4x4 suspended cage constructed from 1x1 inch wire. The boot nestbox is best. Most Greys will scramble into the box when you enter the aviary unannounced. To cut down on panic, knock twice on the door, waiting between each knock, and then pause again after you open the door. The birds quickly learn they have enough time to get safely into the nestbox after this signal.

The hens will lay in the farthest corner of the "toe" of the boot, so there is little concern about the males diving into an egg-laden nest or onto the babies. The basic shape is a vertical grandfather 12x12x24 with a boot toe extension measuring 12x12x12. One by twelve inch pine planking holds up better than plywood. Another advantage of pine planking is that it doesn't contain glue or other adhesives, as does plywood, which the birds chew. Placing hunks of left over 1x12 pine plank or lengths of 2x4 on the bottom of the cage can satisfy a pair's need to chew and spare the nestbox or perches. A large chunk of a natural wood branch, thoroughly disinfected, may serve as well.

An interior wire ladder is required from the cage side bottom of the nestbox entry hole to the floor of the nestbox. It should be securely fastened at the top and bottom to avoid separation from the nestbox and so the birds don't get trapped inside or prevented from entering the box. Four inches of pine shavings can be used as nestbox substrate and should be replaced after each clutch is removed from the nestbox. A dilute solution of a bird-safe disinfectant, such as OxyFresh, Citricidal, or Kennelsol, can be sprayed on and wiped from the surface of the now empty box.

Do Not Disturb

Disturb the birds as little as possible. Pairs should feel that the nestbox is theirs alone - a safe place to raise a family. Pairs who are protective or who feel vulnerable will feel more secure if the nestbox isn't inspected at all. Closed circuit cameras can be installed to keep an eye on breeding activity. Some of the new video cameras are very small and inconspicuous. The large bulky color video cameras can be purchased second hand for under $100. Black and white surveillance cameras are intended, in many cases, for low light locations and can be very useful for observing the birds' activities. You will need a power supply (around $25) and enough co-ax cable to reach from the camera to one of your television input connections.

If the female spends the night in the nestbox, she may have layed an egg. Watch the next morning when the lights come on. If she spends two nights in the nestbox, she surely has layed. If the pair will tolerate nestbox inspection, you can check the nestbox once a week until you find the first egg; otherwise, rely on watching via the camera. Pair incompatibility, as well as human interference, can play a role in eliciting protective behavior. This protective behavior can take the form of expressions of fear, anxiety, and insecurity by excessive or prolonged growling upon inspection, hiding in the nestbox when out of the presence of the caregiver, injuries to the babies, less production, and fewer eggs. The cameras can be very useful with these pairs. Having the box checked daily before I got them disturbed one of my pairs. This particular pair, once double clutchers with two babies per clutch, has given me triple clutches with three and four babies per clutch. Their increased production can be attributed to being disturbed less; making them feel more secure.

Supplemental Foods

The addition of one-quarter teaspoon of Neo-Calglucon to the soft foods after the first egg is discovered will replace the calcium drawn from the hen's body for the formation of the cuticle of the egg. Supplementation should be continued until two weeks after the last egg is layed. A laying hen's blood calcium can rise to over 25 during egg laying from the normal reference values of 7.0 to 9.5 for African Greys. This indicates the massive amount of calcium that is withdrawn from the organs and the bones. Keeping accurate records for each pair can give you an idea of how many eggs you can expect. This enables you to determine when to discontinue the calcium supplementation. Since Neo-Calglucon is so safe, it is of little consequence if the pair gets it for several extra days. When the pair is feeding babies, extra calcium added to the soft foods could be hazardous to the babies. If your hen has chronically low blood calcium levels, consult your avian vet.

Spirulina is added to my "birdie bread" and Wheatgrass is sprinkled on the soft foods. The majority of soft foods, grains, sprouts, and beans are organically grown and are from the health food store. Sweet corn is well loved and eagerly consumed. My Grey breeding birds are fed Harrison's Bird Diet. No supplemental vitamins/minerals should be offered if birds are on a pellet-based diet. Birds who are on pellets and a varied soft food diet are getting all the vitamins and minerals they need unless a bird has low blood calcium. A small quantity of seeds can be offered twice a week as a treat. Breeder formulation pellets should be offered when the pair is feeding babies.

Mating to Hatching

My Greys usually copulate in the morning for about ten days before the hen lays. Once they start copulating in the evening as well, laying is eminent.

Steady and sturdy perches are important as mating often occurs over an extended period of time, on the average for more than 10 minutes. Perches should be the right diameter; if they are too large or too small, the hen may be unable to sustain her balance during mating. Perches ranging in diameter from one and a half inches to three inches along the length will provide the hen with a choice for secure footing. Some hens will benefit from a second perch positioned four inches away from the first. She will be able to lean forward and brace herself for balance and footing during mating. Breeding Greys are most comfortable if their perches are above their caretaker's head. When limited by the height of the room, lower perches will not adversely affect birds that are otherwise secure in their cage and secure in their nestbox.

If you know your birds or watch them on camera, you will have a pretty good idea of when incubation has begun and be able to calculate hatch dates within two or three days. Some hens begin incubating with the first egg; others may wait until the second egg. If the first two babies are the same age, based on development, the hen begins incubating with the second egg. If the babies are three days apart in age, based on development, the hen begins incubation with the first egg. If incubation begins with the second egg rather than the first, this can be a significant advantage if the clutch is large. The age difference between the first and last baby is not as great and there is less chance of the youngest getting lost in the shuffle. Most Greys are good parents; how they manage to feed their lazy babies I can't even guess, as it is not unusual for the handfeeder to have to wake the babies up between spoonfuls of formula.

It is important for the health and safety of the babies that the pair be provided with cage and nestbox security. In addition to video cameras, one of the best purchases you can make for monitoring activities once the babies hatch is a remote infant monitor from Radio Shack. The unit is amazingly sensitive. You can hear the parents leaving and entering the box as well as the babies making their distinctive feeding sounds. The receiving portion of the monitor can be placed against the top of the boot or hung facing the wall of the boot.

Feeding the Parents and the Babies

If the breeding pair aren't paper chewers, the bottom of the cage can be lined with newspaper when they are feeding babies. The paper can be changed three times a day to avoid the birds retrieving a spoiled morsel of food. Giving the parents an over abundance of soft foods will help them feel secure that there is plenty of food for even the largest brood. The parents and the babies in the nestbox will consume an amazing amount of food. Parent birds, provided with an abundance of nutritious foods at 8 or 9am, at 3pm and at 9pm, will produce healthy fat babies. An hour before the lights go out, another bowl of food that won't spoil by morning should be offered such as sweet corn, sprouts, fresh fruits, and vegetables. Sprinkle all of the soft foods with Wheatgrass and provide unlimited Harrison's pellets and the babies will sprout the most beautiful fire engine red tails above the characteristic dark margins of immatures. Pellets should be available at all times. The birds will gorge themselves shortly before lights out and feed the babies during the night. In the early morning, they will finish off the bowl of food given the night before.

Don't be concerned if the hen is seen outside the nestbox infrequently. She will come out only to relieve herself, have a drink of water, or to be fed by the male when the babies are very young. When the babies are a little older, the hen may eat for herself rather than depend on the male for all of the food for her and the growing brood. The male will typically feed the hen in the box or at the entrance. If she comes out of the box for any reason, the male will often feed her then also. It is so strange to see an adult female, or any adult, with a bulging crop.

I reward the parents with dry seeds and pomegranates after pulling the babies. My pairs aren't offered seeds or pomegranates while they are feeding babies. Since the breeding birds love dry seeds and pomegranates, they would fill the babies up with them instead of the nourishing soft foods and pellets.

Pulling Babies From the Nest

Leaving the babies with the parents until the oldest chick is around 24 days old will produce heftier babies than pulling them earlier. A study of my own Grey babies showed clearly and conclusively: The longer the babies were fed by the parents, the better their weights were at 24 days (maximum days fed by the parents) when compared to same-age weights of babies who were pulled earlier than 24 days of age.

This length of time is also very advantageous for handfeeding purposes, if the clutch is three or four, because you aren't feeding very young babies.

A size 14 band will fit on the legs of most 25 day old chicks. If banding is not a consideration, the babies can be left with the parents for a month.

You can use the same method to apply for all Breeding Pairs.
Our prices will be giving to you after you have made your Recommondation of your choices of Animals , which you apply for,
and our payments is through
1.Bank to Bank Tranfer (Account to Account)
2.Western Union Money Transfer
3.Money Gram
Names of Animal/Pets
African Wild Dog ...................................
Agouti .......................................................
Anteaters .................................................
Antelopes ...............................................
Armadillos................................................
Aardvarks................................................
Badgers .....................................................
Bats ...........................................................
Bears .........................................................
Beavers.....................................................
Bobcats ....................................................
Buffaloes ...............................................
Camels ................................................
Cats.....................................................
Cheetahs......................................................
Chimpanzee...................................................
Chinchilla ......................................................
Cougar............................................................
Cows .............................................................
Coyote...........................................................
Deers ................................................................
Desert Animals.................................................
Dhole ...................................................................
Dogs......................................................................
Dolphins ............................................................
Tapirs .................................................................
Tigers ..................................................................
Warthog................................................................
Whales ..................................................................
Wolves .................................................................
Yaks ......................................................................
Zebra ...................................................................
Takin ..................................................................
Duiker .................................................................
Elephants ............................................................
Elk ........................................................................
Ferret ....................................................................
Foxes ......................................................................
Gazelle ...................................................................
Gerbils.....................................................................
Gerenuk....................................................................
Giraffes....................................................................
Goats ....................................................................
Golden Moles.......................................................
Guinea Pigs ..............................................................
Hamsters .......................................................................
Hedgehogs .......................................................................
Hippopotamus ...................................................................
Hooved Animals .............................................................
Horses ................................................................................
Hyenas ..............................................................................
Impala ...............................................................................
Insectivores..........................................................................
Jackals ....................................................................................
Lemur..............................................................................
Leopards.......................................................................
Lions.................................................................................
Llamas...............................................................................
Mandrill ...............................................................................
Marine Mammals..................................................................
Marsupials...............................................................................
Meerkat ......................................................................................
Mice .................................................................................................
Moles and Desmans........................................................................
Moose..................................................................................................
Otters ..................................................................................................
Pigs ............................................................................................
Platypus............................................................................
Primates............................................................................
Rabbits..............................................................................
Raccoon ...........................................................................
Rhinoceros........................................................................
Rodents.............................................................................
Shrews ............................................................................................
Skunks..............................................................................
Sloths ............................................................................................
Squirrels...........................................................................
Takin.................................................................................
Tapirs................................................................................
Tigers.................................................................................
Warthog............................................................................
Whales...............................................................................
Wolves...............................................................................
Yaks ............................................................................................
Make your choices of Animals .among the list we sent to you above.
so that we can prepare invoice prices for you
Looking forward to hear from you as soon as possible.
Thanks
Rev, Dr Kwati Yeboah
Veterninary Surgeon
Zoophile of Mercy Animal Refuge

This is one industrious idiot.[/quote]

Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:09 pm

Seems like he was in the copying and pasting mood and decided to ignore my request for his certificate.

Quote:

Attn:Stephen,
Thanks for your sound and understanding mail, I am glad to receives mail from you, Your contents of your mail is well understood,
local regulations,
Bald and Golden Eagle Act Regulation /Zoning
The bald eagle was removed from the list of threatened and endangered species on August 8, 2007. The bald eagle is still protected under the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act (Eagle Act) and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. The Eagle Act makes it illegal to take (kill, wound, pursue, shoot, shoot at, poison, capture, trap, collect, molest or disturb) bald or golden eagles. Disturb is defined in the Eagle Act as "to agitate or bother a bald or golden eagle to a degree that caused, or is likely to cause, based on the best scientific information available,
( 1) injury to an eagle,
( 2) a decrease in its productivity, by substantially interfering with normal breeding, feeding, or sheltering behavior,
( 3) nest abandonment, by substantially interfering with normal breeding, feeding, or sheltering behavior." The Eagle Act prohibits unregulated take.
To avoid potential disturbance to bald eagles, the National Bald Eagle Management Guidelines provide recommendations that will likely avoid take for a list of activities.
If disturbance will occur in potential violation of the act, a permit to authorize take of eagles is required. The permitting process is currently under development.
The Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act applies to everyone, so for WSDOT projects, a biologist assesses potential project impacts to bald eagles to ensure we are in compliance with the Eagle Act. Compliance with the Eagle Act is also part of the NEPA/SEPA documentation. The National Bald Eagle Management Guidelines are a tool to determine if we will be or can comply with the Eagle Act (e.g. by having a timing restriction, etc.) and, if we cannot, a permit is required for disturbance to bald eagles. Disturbance includes activities that may occur during construction and those that may result after the initial activities have occurred (foreseeable, ongoing future uses). Therefore, impacts may not necessarily be limited to the footprint of the initial activity. In general, routine activities such as maintenance of existing facilities would not need to be permitted unless the activity resulted in a significantly different intensity and likelihood eagles will be disturbed. Technical assistance for bald eagle issues and permits is provided.
Consultants working with local agencies should inform the local agency that bald eagles are still federally protected under the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act and that the local agency is responsible for compliance even if federal money, a federal permit, or federal authorization is not involved. A Highways and Local Programs version of the bald eagle form to document compliance is also available.
Endangered Species Act of 1973
The purpose of the Endangered Species Act is to provide a means whereby the ecosystems upon which threatened and endangered species depend may be conserved, and to provide a program for the conservation of such species. Under Section 7 of the Endangered Species Act, Region agencies are directed to use their authority to support ESA programs for the conservation of listed
Migratory Bird Treaty Act
The Migratory Bird Treaty Act (MBTA) (16USC 703), originally passed in 1918, makes it illegal for anyone to take, possess, import, export, transport, sell, purchase, barter, or offer for sale, purchase, or barter, any migratory bird, or the parts, nests, or eggs of such a bird except under the terms of a valid Federal Permit. The term “take” is not defined in the MBTA, but the Ghana Wildlife Service has defined it by regulation to mean to “pursue, hunt, shoot, wound, kill, trap, capture, or collect” or to attempt those activities. Under the provisions of the MBTA, the unauthorized take of migratory birds is a criminal offense, even if it is unintentional.
Regions Regulations
Ghana Code contains the bulk of Regions regulations pertaining to fish and wildlife in All regions . The Regions has its own criteria for listing a species as endangered, threatened, sensitive, and candidate. Regions protected species are generally referred to as species of concern. Some of these species may also be listed under the federal Endangered Species Act. Wildlife Enforcement Code protects species against unlawful activities.
The Regions has developed rules to provide for additional protection of some species and their habitat. The Bald Eagle Protection Rules outline requirements for protecting the species. The Regions has also defined habitat buffers for bald eagles. Our company Zoophile of Mercy Animal Refugee, Are still offer a space for sponsorship, for all individuals whom will like to apply for takecare of our Animals Species, The area of sponsorship are:-
1.Feeding
2.Drugs
3.Maintances (Building)
4.Payments of salary.
Such person will be awarded accordingly Annually, with one or Two Animals depend on your high contribution with a higher Animals like ( Elephant,Tiger, Unicorns).While other lower contribution will be offerred award with a lower Grade of Animals ,Including (Cat, Dog, and other)e.t.c
How many of the Bald Eagle do you want? Do you need male and female.
We are ready to give you a better services,
Looking forward to hear from you as soon as possible.
Thanks
Rev Dr Kwati Yeboah
Veterinary Surgeon
Zoophile of Mercy Animal Refugee.

I already told him what I wanted several e-mails ago Rolling Eyes

Quote:

Dr. Kwati,

Yes, I know all about Bald Eagle regulations! I told you I had one before! I am not new to this.

And I already told you what I want - a baby, bald male eaglet who likes spaghetti.

WHY IS THAT SO HARD TO UNDERSTAND?!?!

I really, really hate repeating myself.

Send me a scan of your veterinary certificate like I asked for before or the deal is off!!!

-Stephen

"Zew0philes of Mercy" potential massbait	View next topic View previous topic