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 Any Television repair experts?

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Rorschach
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 1:51 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

An appeal for a bit of advice from anyone tech minded who knows about televisions.

I've got a big Grundig TV. Not a flat screen or anything and about six or seven years old.Don't suppose the screen size is relevant but I guess its probably about 36 inches measured from side to side.

Yesterday when our childminder was watching it it just went off (apparently). The little red light that glows when it's in "sleep" mode is on. Can't get any picture or sound although when I try to turn it on with the remote I can hear a low, rapid ticking noise.

Any advice as to whether this is likely to be a fatal problem or whether it may be worth paying an engineer to come out and look at it would be welcome. It may be overdue for replacement but I can't really afford a decent sized plasma or LCD at the moment and I do like my telly. Plus my SO is going to start tearing her hair out soon if we don't get the Racing Channel back.

Cheers

R

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Breddan Butter
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 2:25 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Try looking at this site:
http://www.e-repair.co.uk/faults/TVFAULT.HTM

You will need your Grundig model number (should be on a plate at the back) to find anything useful.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 2:42 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

this is a good guide to tv repair,

I used it to fix two of my tv's after a direct hit by lightning took out my whole house, and fried everything plugged in. i don't know how mechanical you are, or if you'ved ever worked around electricity before, but you might get lucky like I did.
My tvs had a blown fuse in the power supply section, and I could see it. Replaced the fuse, and it was ok. The other one had a big resistor that got fried in the power supply section.


Please note the SAFETY section, if you plan on sticking your hands inside the cover....The CRT tube MUST be discharged FIRST thing. This involves grounding a long screwdriver to the frame if you don't have a crt discharge resistor, etc. Make damn sure you completely understand what you are doing in this first step. or your beneficiary will be very rich.. Sad

If you are scared...or not sure....don't do it....http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/tvfaq.htm

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Slightlyoutofit
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 4:28 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

@Rorschach.
Even if it is repairable, it is probably going to cost you more to get it fixed than to buy a good quality second hand CRT TV.

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Connie L. Gus
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 9:40 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

^^^What great advice, and those links are something else. I would have guessed a bad flyback transformer. The clicking noises with the remote are that happens when something is putting a tremendous load on the power supply. A bad yoke or flyback could do that. Do you smell anything coming from the back? Semiconductor smell from a shorted rectifier in the power supply? After 7 years of use, I would second the motion to beach it and spear it though the CRT and a new tube set is still cheaper than having someone fix yours.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:33 am Reply with quoteBack to top

Whilst this thread is here and there may be some experts watching: Is there any way to reset a Sony Vega TV to factory settings via the engineers menu?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 10:02 am Reply with quoteBack to top

Shiver ....I haven't read it, but does this help ?

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/sonyadj.html

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Rorschach
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 1:19 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Thanks for the tips guys. Haven't noticed any nasty smells coming from the back but will investigate further using the websites mentioned.

In the meantime I'm stick with a portable TV about the size of a box of cornflakes. Not even a remote control. I'm SO unhappy! Sad

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PsycheDelia_Smith
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 3:29 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

TV sets like this have a "soft start", which gently increases current to the circuitry after switchon, and when the voltage has risen to a certain trigger level, a relay clicks in, switching full current to the set. Certain fault conditions would stop it latching, explaining the clicking you hear. It might be something simple, but nobody would advise you to to attempt a repair yourself, and anyone in the trade will probably charge a small fortune, as others have said. Don't go poking around in there unless you're qualified to do so. Dump it and get a new one.

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flushmynutz
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 3:39 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Have you tried the "bang on the top of it with your fist" method? - Surprisingly high success rate Wink

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 11:27 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

^^^I'm one for letting gravity do the work instead of my fist. Working from the front where all the weight is, I like to lift it up about an inch and let it drop. Don't let anyone see you do this. Its a secret technique. Works pretty well in 1% of the cases. In the old days of glass valves, the heater elements would open and the smack would cause the filaments to swing around and reconnect while welding themselves. Bad connections would also be taken care of.

Try it yourself the next time a bulb on you car goes out. Lift it up about one foot and drop it. Just kidding, give the non HID headlamp a thump. It should work so that you can drive home.

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Rorschach
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 1:56 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Giving it a good thump (from several directions) was, obviously, the first thing I tried. No joy there though. Unfortunately Breddan's link doesn't cover my model, whilst the IT Nazis here at work prevent me from accessing SlapHappy's one (they block most Blogs & Forums although thankfully this one seems to slip through their net for some reason).

Model number is MW 82-2699 if someone else would be kind enough to try for me.

Thanks for the safety tips to all. I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron though and am pretty confident I can cope with that side of things.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 2:46 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Found this in one of the forums Rorsarch, slightly diff to what you have, but it could be linked, check the soldered joints, stay well away from contacting the high voltage connections, you'll go backwards through a wall if you do touch them, good luck



Quote:
I have a widescreen Grundig TV (32"). Purchased about 5 years ago. Model Number MW 82-2699 NIC/FTOver the past couple of weeks it keeps going into standby on its' own and sometimes comes back on it's own. Now it seems completely dead - no power. Have checked obvious i.e. fuse, different plug points but still nothing. Bearing in mind the time of year it may be a blessing in disguise but any help or advice gratefully received. Many thanks

Check if it there is any dry contact (mainly on the heavy parts) It is likely to be one of the pins from fly-back transformer (high voltage transformer) soldered on the board. On the same time check the other contacts as well. Good luck
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